Lacul Zănoaga Mare

Zănoaga is Romania’s deepest glacial lake, in Retezat National Park. The best season is late June to early October, when the snow has gone from the higher ground. From Gura Apei reservoir, a blue-cross trail climbs by zigzags up Zlata mountain to the Radeș-Zlata plateau in about 4 hours and on to the southern shore, and a red-triangle trail joins it from Gura Zlata; the climb is over 1,200 m and is dangerous in winter. Avoid it in heavy rain, fog or storms.

The Zănoaga shelter (1,997 m) on the shore has a mountain-rescue team in summer, but it is for emergencies only, so bring a tent, as there is a designated camping area nearby. A park ticket is required, available at the Nucșoara visitor centre, the main entrances or from park staff. Bathing and boats are banned on the park’s lakes, camping is allowed only in the designated places, open fires are banned, and dogs must be kept on a lead. Gemenele, nearby, is a scientific reserve closed to hikers. See the Retezat pages for more.