Lake Ohrid

The lake is shared by two countries, with a town on each side: Ohrid and Struga in North Macedonia and Pogradec in Albania, plus villages and resorts along both shores. Part of the Macedonian shore belongs to Galičica National Park, and the Albanian coast is a managed nature reserve, so expect protected-area rules in places. On the Macedonian shore you can swim freely along most of the lake, and there are campsites on both sides.

When to go

Late spring to early autumn, May to September, is the usual advice. Summer is the busiest time, and in the cold months the lake is quiet and not made for swimming or boat trips.

Where to swim

On the Macedonian shore swimming is free along most of the lake, outside the marked boat zones, with no permit or ticket; organised beaches charge only for sunbeds and umbrellas. The Hydrobiological Institute in Ohrid tests the water regularly, it holds the top quality class, and in the shallows you can usually see the bottom.

Visitors’ favourites are Kaneo, Gradište and Potpesh, and the sandy shore around Sveti Naum has some of the best swimming. The town beaches near Kaneo have a shallow entry that suits families. Between Lagadin and Trpejca the beaches are pebbly and deepen quickly, and the undeveloped bays near Peštani are quieter and a few degrees cooler because of the springs. The bottom drops away suddenly near the shore in places, so be careful with children. Lifeguards work only on the main town beaches, from early June to mid-September, so tell someone where you are before swimming in a remote cove. On the Albanian side the shoreline is craggy, and it is far less crowded than the Albanian coast.

The water is warmest in July and August, at about 23–26 °C, with about 20–22 °C in June and 19–21 °C in September. In high summer the town beaches fill quickly, so arrive between 8 and 10 in the morning. A swim is easy to combine with sightseeing: the church of St John at Kaneo stands above a popular swimming spot, and Plaošnik, the Ancient Theatre and Samuel’s Fortress are all within about 15 minutes’ walk of the water.

Camping

South of Ohrid, on the road to Sveti Naum, Autokamp Gradište is about 16 km from the town, with a long beach that gets lively with students in July and August. Camping Ljubanista, at the foot of Galičica, has a sandy beach of about 650 m, shady trees, a restaurant and a beach bar. Elešec is another car camp in the Ohrid area. Near Struga, at Kališta, there are small lakeside sites such as Camping Rino and Sunrise. In Albania, look at Camping Erlin Beach at Buqeze or Camping Fabio at Drilon, close to Pogradec.

By boat to Sveti Naum

Water taxis run from Ohrid port to Kaneo, and larger boats make the half-day trip along the cliffs to Sveti Naum, about 45 to 90 minutes each way depending on the boat. By road it is about 29 km from Ohrid. Once there, you can join a rowing-boat ride (about 5 euros per person) up the green Black Drim river to the springs, where the water is below 11 °C. Underground water from Lake Prespa reaches the surface here after passing through the Galičica mountains. The monastery is still active, so dress and behave respectfully, and the peacocks in the courtyard can be bold. The car park charges cash only. No public ferry crosses to Albania, and private boat trips over the border need a passport.

Fishing

The Ohrid trout is endangered, and rules differ between the two countries, so ask locally before you cast a line. In North Macedonia you need the general recreational licence plus a separate permit for Lake Ohrid.

What to eat

Try the trout, the lake’s signature dish, in Ohrid and Struga. Across the border in Albania the local favourite is tavë korani, baked fish with walnuts and vegetables. Menus may offer farmed fish, so ask where yours came from. Tushemisht and Drilon, near the springs of Drilon National Park, are known for traditional restaurants.

Beyond the town

Galičica National Park, about 15 km from Ohrid, has trails with views of both Ohrid and Prespa, and the Vevčani springs are about 30 km away.

On the Albanian side

Pogradec is the best base, with a narrow pebble beach along its promenade. Nearby, at Lin, you can see a paleo-Christian church mosaic with lake plants and animals, and a former bunker converted into an Orthodox chapel with views over the lake. The small beaches around the Lin peninsula are popular with locals, but you need your own transport to reach them. At Selca, five rock-cut tombs from the 4th to 1st centuries BC are linked to Illyrian kings. A few days is enough to see the highlights, and the area suits families.